Curtis Ancestor McLaren Vale Shiraz 2021 

The sheer nerve of this Syrah being this elegant and savoury. Love that. Coffee grounds, blackberry leaf, poached plums, juniper, bush pepper berry — it’s all in there. It also has black-skinned fruit, sweet tobacco, bay leaf, lead pencil and, just for flair, a touch of coconut. French and American oak — you can tell. Medium body, but mighty presence. The tannins are chalky, framing the wine with polish and effortless structure.