d’Arenberg The Twenty Eight Road’ Mourvedre 2018
- 91
- $30
- Drink by: 2021-2035
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I can just hear the howls of disappointment echoing around the wine bars of Australia as wine lovers discover that Chester has come up with such a prosaic name for a wine, at least by his standards. Twenty Eight Road borders the Osborn Vineyard and the family winery. It is in that vineyard, from a 3.6 acre block of Mourvedre, that these grapes are sourced. That block was planted in 1918. In other words, you are getting a wine made from 100-year-old vines for a miserable $30. Stock up.
The batches go into open fermenters where foot treading takes place, then to a mix of older French oak to finish fermentation, and mature, for ten months. Deep and dark, with a rich and powerful nose. The flavours are a mix of chocolate, cloves, black fruits and black olives. A muscular style. There are soft, furry tannins here. It is easy to see why this variety so often plays a cameo as part of a blend. It has so much to offer. This should age well for the next five to eight years, so be in no rush. Ideal for a good barbecue or a good steak.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
