Devil’s Lair Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
- 96
- $50
- Drink by: 2021-2033
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Now we are talking. If you do not love this wine then you do not love Cabernet. A cracking vintage – yes, I know, that is a broken record for this region – the grapes were sourced from the estate’s premium vineyards throughout the Margaret River region. Fermentation took place in small static fermenters for 12 to 14 days. The wine then spent fifteen months in French oak barriques (40% new and the rest a mix of one and two-year-old oak).
A wonderfully fragrant wine; opaque purple and classic Cabernet. Aromas of black jellybeans, plums, cassis, aniseed, leather, blackberries and even a touch of florals. Utterly gorgeous and finely balanced. Already showing signs of early complexity. The length is seriously impressive, right through to slightly gravelly tannins and fine acidity. This has the length and intensity that ‘Dance with the Devil’ just lacks and is a stunning Cabernet; brilliant now, and with at least a decade to impress and improve.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
