Geoff Merrill Henley Shiraz 2009

The jewel in the Merrill crown, an aged McLaren Vale Shiraz which spent 38 months in a mix of new American and French hogsheads. According to the information, this is also named after Merrill’s grandfather who lived to 102 (did both grandfathers make that venerable age or did one have a couple of aliases? No matter). Only 285 dozen were made, from the seven selected barrels. The colour is inky dark. This is a mature and complex wine, though it is in no hurry to reach the end of its life. Enjoy this at any time over the next ten to twenty years as there is still primary fruit to be found. Rich chocolate notes, cigar box and tobacco leaves (not quite the same thing), with blackberries and leather – such an alluring nose. The palate is utterly seamless and the finish is incredibly long with fine, ever-so-silky tannins. The chocolate notes really emerge on the palate and the balance throughout is immaculate. For cricket fans, crack open a bottle when you are sitting late into the night to watch the forthcoming Ashes series and keep an eye out for Geoff in the crowd. You are almost certain to see the famous moustached winemaker at some stage (and yes, Merv Hughes got the idea from Geoff – or so goes the story).