Vignerons Schmolzer & Brown Obstgarten T 2024

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This is understandably nervy on opening but is quick to settle into a harmonious mix of homemade lemonade, tonic, lime pith, Makrut lime leaf and peach blossom start, followed by subtle nashi pear, green apple, slate, chalk and a glimmer of cinnamon. It’s zesty, lifted, fresh and bright. The palate balances texture and tautness nicely, with 5 grams of residual sugar here sitting in wonderful balance. Lemon rind and green apple sit above hints of white peach and kumquat with a shot of mineral presence through the core and a nice bite of preserved lemon phenolics gripping the sides and drawing length. Classic acidity cleans up and elongates the zesty fruit. The wine’s purity, texture, sugar and structure work together to make a Riesling of balance and interest. Another strong release. 210 dozen bottled.

Tom Kline
Wine Critic at Winepilot

Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.

Wine tasting and writing
Pilot
Date
Variety: Other, Specialty