Head Les Blancs Barossa and Eden Valley 2024
- 92
- $30
- Drink by: 2025-2033
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Fascinating story behind this wine, though I suspect that more information is still to emerge. In 2023, Alex combined a barrel of Savagnin made from vines which were planted in 2001 (many will remember the excitement of the new plantings of Alberino in regions across the country, only to discover that it was no such thing, but rather Savagnin) with a barrel of Eden Valley Viognier and a third barrel. There is some confusion about just what it was with it being referred to as White Grenache coming from an old bush vine vineyard discovered in 2020, but largely unwanted. There are also references to plantings of what might be White Grenache – planted in 1953 – and later possibly identified as Biancone, but on which Alex has had DNA testing done, though he is keeping the results quiet for the moment. One digresses. Straw gold in colour, we have notes of stonefruit, dried herbs and melon, with warm earth tones – think of sun-kissed stones in a field of lavender. Showing a powerful palate, this is a seamless wine of medium length, which remains balanced throughout with some apricot kernel characters. There is firm acidity and a dense finish. Enjoy this now and for the next six to eight years. Curiosity alone will ensure this sells out quickly, so do not hesitate.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
