Kilikanoon Mort’s Reserve Riesling 2017

A great reserve Riesling is a joy to taste, elevating what is already a good wine to another level of complexity and sheer enjoyment. In the Clare Valley, the term usually comes with some extended bottle age to save the drinker time and cellar space (which is generally at a premium in this house). It’s ready to go when released. The winemaker needs to make a call on what comes under the reserve label pretty early in its life. He or she has to be able to see into the future.

In the 2017 vintage, the basis of Mort’s Reserve has to have been the pure line of intense lime and citrus that pervades every square inch (centimetre?) of flavour. It’s tingly, zesty with a real kick. Fruit concentration is the key here. Fragrant and subtle on the bouquet it builds and builds drawing intensity from the long, pure acid drive that propels this wine. Pithy in texture with a touch of spice, it fulfils its reserve name and then some.