Luis Perez ‘El Muelle’ Vino de Pasto Palomino 2019

There is more to Andalusia than decadent fortified wines. Willy Perez, among other talented young guns, is eager to show how palomino can make delicious table wines that mirror the terroir like no others. His ‘El Muelle’ is an excellent introduction.

A few hours of partial sun-drying of the grapes, locally known as ‘asoleo’, are enough to further concentrate the aromas of ripe orchard fruit, cereal and composed florals. A month of light flor ageing contributes with a layer of umami (husk, olive leaf and fresh enoki).

The palate is a flavour journey: the upfront richness with pear and melon pulp evolves, giving way to a samphire-like ‘salty succulence’ and ultimately, an assertive chalkiness that reminds you of where those vines anchor their roots. It’s fun and a great match with grains and legume based vegetarian dishes.