Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

We are into the Mitolo big guns here, a collection from the superb 2021 vintage, one of McLaren Vale’s best. For those wondering, yes, it is named after Detective Frank Serpico of the NYPD, famous for fighting corruption back in the Sixties and celebrated in both book (by Peter Maas) and film, both of which are seriously good (no spoilers, of course, but from memory, the poor bloke was shot in the face for his troubles, by fellow cops, but fortunately survived – so okay, possibly a small spoiler). What has a New York cop got to do with a Cab from McLaren Vale? This is made by the apassimento method, which the team see as going against the grain, just like Serpico. Apassimento is where the harvested grapes are left to dry and concentrate, upping the intensity. The oak, for a couple of years’ maturation, is a mix of new and older French. Under diam. Deep garnet hue, the nose exhibits an array of aromas, with notes of black fruits, bay leaves, chocolate, warm earth, cigar boxes, aniseed, Bovril and oak influence. This wine offers, what one of our cricket commentators might call, the corridor of Cabernet concentration. Powerful stuff. There is quite a surprisingly supple texture here, with very good length and focus. Years of pleasure ahead here, at least ten to twelve.