Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

We are into the Mitolo big guns here, a collection from the superb 2021 vintage, one of McLaren Vale’s best. For those wondering, yes, it is named after Detective Frank Serpico of the NYPD, famous for fighting corruption back in the Sixties and celebrated in both book (by Peter Maas) and film, both of which are seriously good (no spoilers, of course, but from memory, the poor bloke was shot in the face for his troubles, by fellow cops, but fortunately survived – so okay, possibly a small spoiler). What has a New York cop got to do with a Cab from McLaren Vale? This is made by the apassimento method, which the team see as going against the grain, just like Serpico. Apassimento is where the harvested grapes are left to dry and concentrate, upping the intensity. The oak, for a couple of years’ maturation, is a mix of new and older French. Under diam. Deep garnet hue, the nose exhibits an array of aromas, with notes of black fruits, bay leaves, chocolate, warm earth, cigar boxes, aniseed, Bovril and oak influence. This wine offers, what one of our cricket commentators might call, the corridor of Cabernet concentration. Powerful stuff. There is quite a surprisingly supple texture here, with very good length and focus. Years of pleasure ahead here, at least ten to twelve.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic