If the Watervale sub-region brings elegance and beauty to the riesling grape, Polish Hill River brings über spice and an almost nervous tension or coiled energy. Both characters are fast out of the blocks and raring to go in the 2021 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River. Granny Smith apple, lime, fennel and herbal notes across the bouquet. Fasten your seatbelt for a brisk, wild ride. It hits the palate at pace accentuated by taut, crunchy acidity and a pure line of green apple, grapefruit juiciness, spice and nougat. Writers often refer to a “surge of electricity” with Polish Hill River Riesling. It’s here all right, but while the structure is tight, the fruit is also tight. This is a wine with time on its mind. Give it years in bottle and you will be rewarded.
O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2021