O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2023

Beautiful, arresting aromatics and a rare delicacy; you just know you are in Watervale territory when you set upon that aroma, those flavours. Scents of citrus blossom, lemon zest, lime sorbet and spring flowers with a touch of lantana bring not only a sense of place but grape variety. The ’23 vintage looks to be another excellent year, making it three in a row for Clare Riesling, joining the outstanding ’21 and ’22. Not quite as seamless as its ’23 sibling but give it time. This youngster is still very much working at getting it together. There’s a clean, brisk acidity that’s tart and green apple crunchy. It drives the wine bringing in its wake lime cordial, pink grapefruit, ginger spice, citrus zest and a cool slate, wet stone tang. So pure, so good.