Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz 2019

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Once known as Kalimna shiraz, the word Kalimna no longer can be seen on the label.It is a fully-fledged multi-regional blend these days: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully. Despite the name change, the flavour rings true to past releases.

The dense red carries that sweet Aussie fruit imprint. American oak coconut ice – a defining feature – and black-fruited generosity arrive by the barrow-full. It’s bold and richly textured, which is just how Bin 28 drinkers like it. The style has been perfected since it was first made in 1959. No surprises here. Blackberry, cassis, pastille, coconut ice confection, black olives, licorice strap and spice. All up front and in your face a little, it’s warm-climate sourced and proud. No doubt about it. The 14.5% alcohol is equally warming  and vocal. Earth, leather, pan forte bring a touch of savouriness and dried fruit intensity while blackberry, bitter chocolate and loaded spice do the rest as the wine rolls over the tongue. Tannins are pliable, rolling with the fruit and alcohol.