Penfolds Bin 28 Shiraz 2019

Once known as Kalimna shiraz, the word Kalimna no longer can be seen on the label.It is a fully-fledged multi-regional blend these days: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully. Despite the name change, the flavour rings true to past releases.

The dense red carries that sweet Aussie fruit imprint. American oak coconut ice – a defining feature – and black-fruited generosity arrive by the barrow-full. It’s bold and richly textured, which is just how Bin 28 drinkers like it. The style has been perfected since it was first made in 1959. No surprises here. Blackberry, cassis, pastille, coconut ice confection, black olives, licorice strap and spice. All up front and in your face a little, it’s warm-climate sourced and proud. No doubt about it. The 14.5% alcohol is equally warming  and vocal. Earth, leather, pan forte bring a touch of savouriness and dried fruit intensity while blackberry, bitter chocolate and loaded spice do the rest as the wine rolls over the tongue. Tannins are pliable, rolling with the fruit and alcohol.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic