Pontifex Shiraz 2018

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As much as I enjoyed the GSM blend, for me, this is a step up. Sourced from vineyards at Krondorf and St Kitts in the Barossa, the grapes were harvested at night. A dollop of Viognier was co-fermented, but as with all the best versions of this blend, it is almost invisible, just lifting the aromas and the colour (had the cheat sheet not mentioned its inclusion, I would not have picked it). A 6-tonne open-top fermenter was used for seven days with twice-daily pumping over by hand. Then 20 months in French oak barrels, 20% new. Near opaque in colour, the intense aromas move through chocolate, damson plums, black fruits, licorice and cloves. Supple texture, fine length, good acidity and excellent balance. Some black cherry and mulberry notes emerge on the palate and the oak is impeccably integrated. Enjoyable now but will cellar well for a decade.