Richard Seguin Charmes-Chambertin 2022

Of all of the Grand Crus in Gevrey-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin is often considered to be one of the lesser offerings. That said, it comprises of around thirty hectares and there is considerable variation throughout. This wine comes from vines previously contributing to one of the most highly regarded wines from the region, from a legendary maker (incidentally, a wine which is considerably more expensive than this from Seguin). The seductiveness and plush, generous fruit for which Chames is known is on display here, and this is only enhanced by the quality of the 2022 vintage, itself forward, generous and richly flavoured. A purple maroon hue, the nose offers notes of spices, herbs, leather, florals, animal skins, dark cherries and cranberries. It is finely balanced, with a supple and rather gorgeous texture. Oak integration is still in process and the wine will be better if it can spend another couple of years in the cellar before opening. That said, the flavours are a little more exuberant and forward than is typical in Burgundy and it will be approachable sooner than many, while still living for the best part of the next couple of decades. Impressively structured, there is a touch of milk chocolate and cassis on the palate. Fine silky tannins and excellent length complete the package. In Grand Cru terms, this is cracking value.

Available nowhere else on the planet other than the Reserve Cellar.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic