Schubert Estate The Lone Goose Shiraz 2016

Variations on a theme. This version of shiraz from Schubert has 3% viognier co-fermented. Does it work? Perhaps the colour is a tad brighter and perhaps the aromas are a smidge more floral. Perhaps the texture is just that tiny bit more supple. I think it works and like it a lot.  

The shiraz comes from Block 4 in the family vineyards in the Marananga sub-region of the Barossa, which was planted in 1998. The viognier comes from Block 1B, planted in 1990. It is the Montellier clone. As usual, the grapes are handpicked before destemming takes place. Fermentation is with wild yeasts in 5 tonne open top fermenters. Remontage takes place twice daily, with the aim to make sure any extraction of colour and flavour is done as gently as possible. After fermentation, the free-run juice and the pressings are basket-pressed and then transferred to older 225-litre French oak barriques. Maturation is for 20 months. 

Vibrant colour here, deep purple. More floral notes emerge than with the other Schubert wines, but there is still that trademark delicious chocolate and mocha which is evident with all these wines from the Marananga sub-region. Also some dry herbs and leather notes so excellent complexity here. Soft, lingering tannins; love that supple texture. Good luck keeping your hands off this for the long haul but if you can, it will cellar to advantage for a couple of decades. 96 with a bullet. 

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic