Seppelt Drumborg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021

From one of the most southerly vineyards in Victoria comes a pinot with “cool climate” written in big, bold letters all over it. You would love to get this wine in a Wine Options Game. Sinewy, fine and pure, it sings of its coastline location: of wild herbs, red cherry and undergrowth. Starts taut and then loosens right up, building, building as it goes. Cherry, cranberry, herbs, salt bush, a touch of smoky oak on the bouquet. A “proportion” of whole bunches was included in the winemaking, bringing a cut and thrust to the wine without being too over-powering. Some might think otherwise. A near-seamless palate awaits, mixing the softer aspects of the wine – stewed rhubarb and plum – held together with a sinewy tannin thread. The winemaker has matured the wine for 9 months in 23% new oak. It’s slurped it up, finishing with a light cigar-box-smokiness.