Sordo Barolo Monprivato 2017

A deal of mystery surrounds this vineyard, and there’s only a tiny volume that comes into the Sordo family’s hands. What results is absolutely magical, starting with a deep core of licorice aromas, perhaps more like fennel seed, and sweetish, dark pipe tobacco, then wafts of powdery black pepper, almost ash-like. Spend as much time as you can in this nasal heaven. As for fruits, think dried red berries, but really this wine is more about its savoury lines and palate shape. The tannins are fine and powdery with the lightest of grip at the ¾ mark in the mouth, and past this the wine bursts back into life, the “peacock’s tail” as it’s known in other circles. So, there is an energy and momentum to this wine that is truly unique. A “journey” for want of a cliché. Everything that happens here is exciting and inspiring.