Squitchy Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
- 90
- $55
- Drink by: 2022-2028
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According to the label, this wine is sourced from the producer’s oldest cabernet vines, planted 35 years ago. That means they just scrape their way into official old vine status. A tightly-framed cabernet, there is not so much an obvious Yarra Valley plushness of fruit, as there is potential for a deep richness to be delivered in the future. Right now, it’s in thinking mode, getting everything together, building a future in the glass. Rhubarb, sour cherry, black plum scents rise from the glass with a touch of smoked meats and charcuterie. Some interesting oak input here brings a lightly savoury context to the wine. Leafy notes aplenty across the palate; green herbs, plum, black fruits, capsicum and pencil shavings oak still all coming together. Give it time.
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
