Swinney Syrah 2021
- 96
- $46
- Drink by: 2022-2032
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No doubt the Rhône keeps a close eye on what goes on over here, especially in the Barossa and McLaren Vale. Now, they better start paying serious attention to these guys, although if they do, they might be more than a bit worried by what they see. Such a good range of wines here, and this isn’t even the pointy end stuff! Swinney might just be the most exciting winery to emerge in Australia over the last few years. This hails from specific sites in their Powderbark and Wilson’s Pool vineyards. The fruit is berry sorted and then to a mix of wooden and stainless steel fermenters by gravity. 22% whole bunches are included. Wild fermentation and then twelve days on skins before pressing direct to fine-grained large format French oak, of which 12% was new for 11 months maturation. Deep blood red and maroon in colour, we have notes of black fruits, chocolate, animal hides, earth, leather, spices, cloves and florals. A supple texture and there is immaculate balance at every turn plus fine satiny tannins. Bright acidity runs the full journey and helps to drive the palate with very good length. A decade or more ahead, though a cracker now. This, and other wines in this range, are really putting pressure on their big guns (the Farvie range). The score will surely go higher if you have patience.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
