Tenafeate Creek Wines Durif 2023

Durif is an interesting variety, usually only seen locally as a solo grape from Rutherglen. This one is from a single vineyard planted back in 2008 in the One Tree Hill region. It is normally little more than a curiosity rather than something regarded as a noble variety, but it has its fans. Lovers of big and bold (and alcoholic) reds tend to be among them (this example hits 16%). That said, many years ago, giving a wine class, a hand shot up with one of the participants insisting that Durif was the greatest of all grapes. To their credit, they would not be swayed. I found out later that the relevant person was a politician, so I should not have been surprised at crazy talk, but in fairness, there are some thoroughly enjoyable examples that have their time and place. And this example is most certainly enjoyable. An opaque purple, the nose offers notes of chocolate, blackberries, spices, cloves, coffee grinds, soy, mocha and licorice. Big and full flavoured, this is a little chunky in style but that is the grape. A muscular wine with serious length, there are fine but firm tannins on the finish, and loads of them. It has a good ten to fifteen years ahead of it. If you are someone who enjoys big, bold, robust reds, get on board.