Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2024

This has one of those beautiful “ohhh” openings. Pretty and bright, with cinnamon, white flowers, fine cedar, almond meal and green apple sitting high-toned and pure. Things deepen with air as pithy white grapefruit asserts itself into the mix along with crushed rock minerality, sea spray and flickers of nutty nougat. Some cashew and lemon juice in there too — an arresting opening indeed. The palate has great concentration, bursting with white peach, cinnamon, white grapefruit, pear, sea spray, lemon juice and pith. There’s gorgeous flow and energy as it glides through the mouth inside a frame of saline acidity and chalky phenolic grip, with length for days thanks to waves of rolling acidity. Outstanding — Virginia Wilcock and the team have done it again.