Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Indigo Vineyard Shiraz 2021

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100% Beechworth fruit from the Indigo Vineyard. Around 25% whole bunch ferment, with the remainder whole berry before 10 months in old oak. Twiggy spice and tilled earth aromas are filled out by forest berries, a ferrous note and delicate baking spices – cinnamon and nutmeg. Its savouriness brings so much intrigue straight of the gate, and it’s a welcome change to the typical dominance of primary fruit with young releases of this variety in Australia. The bunch aromas emerge more following a swirl of the glass, supported by dark cherry that sits so beautifully with the baking spice aromas. The palate has a cooling mouthfeel which acts a foil to its earthen savouriness. Forest floor, wild berry, violet, decaying florals and sweet spice are wrapped up in sinewy, slinky, bitter cacao-infused tannins and cooling acidity. The cool notes are great in this wine, which is perfectly ripe and masterfully controlled. Not sure I’d pick this as new world if served blind, and I love that. Packed with intrigue and interest.