Wines by Johannes Zillinger Perpetuum Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2019

This is Zillinger’s vineyard project that defies climate change with vines which have higher acid but equates to the same physiological ripeness grafted in the coldest part of the Riesling vineyard. Perpetual is a cuvée that embodies Zillinger’s philosophy. With less density than the Numen Riesling, this wine has a glistening yellow glow with the most expressive nose you can find in the range, but also, for a wine from such a cool climate, the nose can easily be mistaken for a wine from a warmer region. Leaping out of the glass, and intensely aromatic, there is aniseed, poached quince, dried apricots, marmalade on fresh croissant and kumquat jam. The palate confirms these notes but on the drier side of the scale rendering a superbly well balanced wine wrapped around a mouthful of fruits, some salt crystals, floral components and a doughy texture lifted by vibrant acidity forcefully driving to a long finish, leaving notes of grapefruits, spice and chalk behind. This has to be a contender for one of the most mind bending expressions of Sauvignon Blancs.

Liinaa Berry

Liinaa Berry is a Melbourne-based wine critic and consultant with over a decade of experience as a sommelier and wine buyer across Australia and around the world where she has built award-winning wine programs and championed independent producers with conviction. Now focused on reviewing and writing, Liinaa brings a floor-trained palate and commercial insight to her assessments. She is also the Melbourne Ambassador for Star Wine List and serves on the committee of Sommeliers Australia. An advocate for site-driven wines and thoughtful farming, Liinaa is particularly drawn to producers who articulate a clear sense of place. Her tasting philosophy centres on structure, balance and context — always asking not just how a wine tastes, but why it matters.