Wolf Blass Black Label 2017
A wine with extraordinary pedigree including four (say it again – F.O.U.R.) Jimmy Watson Trophies during its nigh-on 50-year history. The blending of regions and varieties – 51% cabernet sauvignon/ 44% shiraz/ 5% malbec – speaks of the enormous resource available to this producer, so it’s not surprising the fruit power here is indelible, enhanced at the start by savoury earthiness and trademark house dark mocha. The cabernet provides just enough varietal essence to suggest blackcurrant/ cassis as well as typically blackberry and dark skinned/dark fleshed plums, which, after 17 months in mostly French, with 8% American, oak has added spice and complexity without dominating the flavours or adding weight, allowing fruit acidity to remain energised even with a prominent curtain of tannin. Drinking well now and will certainly develop further complexities over the next 10-20 years in a good cellar.