Xanadu Reserve Chardonnay 2020
- 97
- $110
- Drink by: 2022-2036
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If Stevens Road offers the sunny side of the Gin Gin chardonnay clone, here we see its other, more serious expression. Way more serious. Built around taut acidity and an oh-so-slow-to-evolve fruit presence, there is a level of anticipation with each mouthful. You sense beneath its firm exterior that something special is evolving. But this reserve chardonnay, living up to its name, will not be hurried. Give it time. It will be worth the wait.
A swish of air and the glass is filled with a striking lemony perfume, green papaya and grapefruit pulp. It offers a deep-seated, quiet complexity. Citrus is quite a powerful flavour component of the wine, matched on the palate with leesy, mealy characters, grilled nuts, mandarin skin, brisk green apple accompanied by a punchy lift of brisk acidity. It’s clearly in building mode. The maker has a clear definition of what a reserve chardonnay should be. How refreshing! It is a wine of presence – you sense it immediately – and that it is built to last.
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
