Avani Issan Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Crimson and vibrant, slightly hazy in the glass, this begins with freshly picked cherry and Morello before moving somewhere darker: tree bark after rain, five spice, shaved nutmeg, fried curry leaf and yellow mustard seed. Black tea keeps appearing, steeped with citrus peel, while tomato leaf and pomegranate bring a greener, tart edge. There is something autumnal about it, the smell of a forest floor holding moisture rather than straightforward Pinot prettiness.

Issan is a four-hectare vineyard behind the Korumburra Hills, planted with Pinot Noir in 1994 at 9,000 vines per hectare and never irrigated. It is a marginal place: lean grey clay and loam with quartz and pockets of darker volcanic soil, high Gippsland rainfall, persistent wind and enough frost pressure that some vintages disappear altogether. The fruit once formed part of the Bass Phillip wines; Avani now leases and farms the vineyard themselves, working organically, without herbicides or systemic sprays, and spending considerable time opening the canopy and positioning shoots by hand. In the cool 2023 season, Pinot hung until late March.

Shashi Singh destems the fruit completely because she finds stems alter the tannin and fruit expression she wants from Issan. Natural fermentation, hand plunging and 18 months in second-use 300-litre barrels follow, then no fining or filtration and another long rest in bottle before release. The intention is unusually clear: the tannin belongs to the vineyard, so there is little reason to manufacture more of it in the winery.

That decision becomes the shape of the wine. It starts linear and racy, almost evanescent, before fine gravelly tannins gather through the middle and pull everything upright. There is energy rather than weight, then black tea, bay leaf and citrus peel tighten into a puckering finish with pomegranate seed gentle bitterness. The fruit is there, but right now, the structure speaks louder.

It is also why its youth can be misleading. The tannin hasn’t completely folded into the fruit yet, and the wine takes considerably more space with air; over several days it moves from almost shy to increasingly expansive. Drink it now with roast duck, seekh kebab with tomato chutney, grilled mushrooms or charcuterie, but I would rather give it time. This is Pinot built with the expectation that someone will wait. 

Liinaa Berry

Liinaa Berry is a Melbourne-based wine critic and consultant with over a decade of experience as a sommelier and wine buyer across Australia and around the world where she has built award-winning wine programs and championed independent producers with conviction. Now focused on reviewing and writing, Liinaa brings a floor-trained palate and commercial insight to her assessments. She is also the Melbourne Ambassador for Star Wine List and serves on the committee of Sommeliers Australia. An advocate for site-driven wines and thoughtful farming, Liinaa is particularly drawn to producers who articulate a clear sense of place. Her tasting philosophy centres on structure, balance and context — always asking not just how a wine tastes, but why it matters.