The key to the top sparkling wines is the time they sit on their yeast lees. Time that adds not only layers of pastry-like complexity plus also fine and delicate bubbles. This wine is a great example with superb balance of bright fruit, and that savoury, leesy complexity.

It’s pale and youthful in colour, despite its age, which suggests good ageing potential. Aromatically, there is razor like focus of citrus fruits with layers of detailed French pastry and praline complexity. In the mouth, a strong line of acidity drives a powerful yet fine palate, with good richness and texture from Pinot Noir. It tastes very much of a vintage wine that is still tight and lean, needing time to evolve and show its best. Give it five years and then pair it up with smoked salmon.