Clonakilla Riesling 2025
- 95
- $38
- Drink by: 2025-2040
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There are two types of wine lovers. Those who understand and appreciate the glory of Australian Riesling, and those who are yet to see the light. Among the former, most will turn immediately to the Clare and Eden valleys, with a nod to Frankland River. Some of our other regions are woefully underestimated and Canberra is proving itself very much part of the neglected, when it comes to this grape. The Rieslings from here can be beautifully constructed, taking advantage of the cooler climate. My spies, and the evidence to date, suggest that the 2025 vintage is a truly spectacular one and anyone interested in seeing just how good these wines can be should turn their attention to them as soon as possible. Quantities are never extensive. Clonakilla is, of course, best known for its brilliant reds, especially the Shiraz Viognier. Do not ignore their Riesling. It is something special. A very pale lemon hue, there are intense aromatics with citrus, florals, limes, bath salts and talc all evident, with slight chalky notes in the background. Bright, zesty acidity runs the length and the wine is immaculately balanced. Utterly pristine, there is excellent focus and a very long and persistent finish here. This sits with the very best Clonakilla Rieslings I have seen. Drink over the next 15 years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
