Curtis Small Batch McLaren Vale Grenache Shiraz 2020
- 93
- $80
- Drink by: 2022-2030
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There is an intriguing dichotomy here. The labels tend to suggest that these wines are fresh and fun. Pricing suggests something more serious. Are they mutually exclusive? The grapes, from 80-year-old to 120-year-old vines, were gently destemmed and cold-soaked for two weeks, before fermentation over a further two weeks. Gentle pressing into a mix of new and 2-year-old French Oak barrels. The colour here is a deep red/crimson. Aromas move through bay leaves, chocolate, mulberries, raspberries and coffee grinds. There is then a supple texture plus a lingering finish with soft and silky tannins – the palate is impressively refined with good balance throughout. Delicious drinking, but a wine which suggests some early complexity and a long future, at least six to eight years; well cellared, considerably longer. Perhaps they are not mutually exclusive.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
