D’Arenberg The Dry Dam Riesling 2023
- 92
- $19
- Drink by: 2024-2028
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A blend of fruit from McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills, not the most common pairing but one that works here. Basket pressing of small batches, before a long and cool fermentation, is brought to a halt before the wine reaches full dryness, providing balance. Pale lemon, we have notes of citrus, florals, cold tea and a hint of peaches. A mineral support lies in the background with a line of fresh acidity. There is some fruit sweetness evident towards the finish – at least, it appears as such but is no doubt that remaining residual sweetness. The wine fills out on the palate, with a touch of orange rind on the finish and good length.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
