La Kooki Right Side of Racy Chardonnay 2022
- 91
- $38
- Drink by: 2024-2030
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As the name suggests, this is one racy little number of a Chardonnay. It is unapologetic in its assertive acidity, a force that really gets the gastric juices working overtime. Distinctive, too, in its cool climate green herbal aromas that mix in with apple, citrus, straw and nutty almond. Margaret River plushness is nowhere to be seen. This is about a cool climate interpretation, picked early, high in pithy lemony acidity and still very much coiled tight. The emergence of an attractive nuttiness on the palate amid quince, apple and citrus notes, is a good sign. This racy one is still a way off the top of its game. Give it time.
Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.
