Gill Estate Rivah Malbec 2021

There are a lot of wine grapes grown in Victoria’s Sunraysia, but rarely do we see the regional name on wine labels. It tends to play an anonymous role until you come upon little treasures such as this Malbec and, even then, its identity is well hidden. However, the winery address gives it away. From the eye-catching summery label to the $20 price tag, this Malbec is deserving of your attention. Generally consigned to a Bordeaux-style blend, Malbec stands tall combining a soft, plummy warmth with attractive savoury notes. Undergrowth, sage, blackberry and just a hint of blackcurrant pastille confection do the introductions on the bouquet. Rises on the palate with a layer of smoked charcuterie bringing extra interest amid the spice and ripe black fruits. Finishes nice and textural and warm across the tongue. Shows the grape’s versatility as a stand-alone wine with style and immediate drinking pleasure. More please.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic