Gundog Estate Indomitus Albus Hunter Valley 2023

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Winemaker, Matt Burton, describes the philosophy behind the Indomitus range as ‘thoughtful experimentation’. Personally, I think he just wanted a wine named after a Jurassic Park dinosaur – who wouldn’t? This received a slightly different treatment from standard Hunter Semillon practices, with wild yeast for fermentation in both tank and barrel, a portion of the wine having an extended – 175 days – maceration on skins. Alcohol is a mere 10.4% and only 340 dozen were made. Love the label. Pale lemon hue, this has great intensity with a tight structure. Fine acidity and very good length, there are hints of citrus and stonefruit. A soft, creamy texture, this is a wine with focus. Expect ten to twelve years of pleasure, possibly more. A cracking Hunter Semillon.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
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