Hewitson The Old Garden Single Vineyard 1853 Mourvèdre 2018
- 97
- $88
- Drink by: 2021-2035
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This is a bit special. The vines were originally planted in 1853 – the oldest Mourvèdre vines on the planet. The ‘Old Garden’ vineyard is world famous. America’s ‘Wine Enthusiast’ magazine named the ten vineyards behind the ‘world’s most famous wines’. The list includes legendary vineyards like Romanée-Conti, Montrachet, Clos des Goisses, Cannubi and more. From Australia, only the ‘Old Garden’ made the cut. That’s pretty cool.
The vineyard at Rowland Flat is dry-grown and the vines are all pre-phylloxera. Only eight rows contribute to this wine. The vineyard has been tended by Friedrich Koch and his direct descendants, across three centuries. It was Friedrich who originally planted the vineyard in 1853.
And the wine more than matches the hype. If there is a better Mourvèdre, I’m keen to see it. Under cork in the super-heavy bottle with the monster punt, the colour is a slightly fading red. The nose is an array of soft dry herbs, tobacco box characters, spices, black fruits, coffee grinds and mocha. The palate offers appealing savouriness, great intensity and extraordinary length. There is complexity here and an enticing slippery texture, through to cushiony tannins. The focus is excellent and the balance immaculate throughout. A great future beckons. Not sure Mourvèdre is done better anywhere.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
