Kooyong Farrago Chardonnay 2020
- 95
- $60
- Drink by: 2022-2030
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The Farrago Block is a little under three hectares in size, with the fruit for the Chardonnay sourced from a 0.7 hectare of vines a little over twenty years of age. The vineyard is clay with a considerable influence from ironstone pebbles. Whole bunch pressing into French oak barriques, a small part of which are new – 20% this vintage. Native yeasts and then nearly a year on lees, though no bâtonnage. One racking but no fining and minimal filtration.
The 2019 was more reminiscent of Grand Cru Chablis than Meursault and the cooler 2020 vintage only seems to emphasise that distinction. Grapefruit, lemon pith, stonefruit notes, a minerally background and a slight wet slate character. The oak is integrating well, leaving a slight nutty impression. Finely crafted, elegant and yet with intensity plus impressive balance, this is a cracking Chardonnay and should impress for at least the next 6 to 8 years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
