Kooyong Haven Pinot Noir 2019

We are so often told that the great pinot regions outside Burgundy are Oregon and an assortment from New Zealand. While wines like this latest collection from Kooyong are available, get on board because at some stage, the rest of the world is going to twig to what is going on down there in Mornington Peninsula. This pinot is from a 0.75 ha section of vines, from two blocks (the same two almost every time), planted more than two decades ago, within their Haven Vineyard, known for being their most sheltered site. This allows the grapes more time to ripen, avoiding any strong winds. The full vineyard encompasses 6.88 hectares and totals seven blocks. The grapes are fully de-stemmed. Fermentation occurs over 18 days in large-format wooden and stainless-steel tanks, by way of native yeasts. The wine is then pressed and racked into French oak barriques (25% new), before undergoing malolactic fermentation. The total maturation period is 14 months. Bottling takes place without fining or filtration. 

The colour is more sunset and a deeper crimson than that of the Meres. The aromas here are florals and that of raspberries. Some cherry pip notes mingle with earthy tones. There is a slight note of bramble and a lovely, luxurious, juicy texture. Very fine tannins abound, giving the wine a hint of velvety plushness. Good length to be found in this wine – it really does linger – and it undoubtedly has an exciting future, at least four to six years.

Ken Gargett

Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic