Kooyong Haven Pinot Noir 2021
- 96
- $86
- Drink by: 2023-2033
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25-year-old vines in this 0.75 hectare site were fermented for 17 days, with a percentage of whole bunches and wild yeasts in large format wooden and concrete tanks. Racked to French oak barriques, 20% new, before a further 14 months maturation. For me, the pick of the trio. A really impressive Aussie Pinot, no matter where from. Top shelf. A very pale red hue, this is a lovely savoury and slightly smoky style of Pinot. Notes of undergrowth and red fruits, cherries, bay leaves and dry herbs. Seamless with ever-so-soft and silky tannins, yet no mistaking them. Serious length here and a little more richness than exhibited by its siblings at this early stage. A glorious palate, never-ending and maintaining the intensity at every stage. Enjoy over six to ten years. Really impressive.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
