Moss Brothers Organic Wild Garden Chenin Blanc 2023

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Chenin from the West has always been more popular than a lot of us located over on the eastern seaboard realised. This organic example from Margaret River is barrel fermented for extra complexity – two to three year old French oak barrels and puncheons – followed by nine months maturation. A bright yellow/green, this is taut and poised, but still a little muted at this early stage. Chenin has the ability to be one of our longest lived varieties and this one should prove no different. There are notes of walnuts, honey, a little citrus and stone fruits. It is firm and focused with good acidity that is quite juicy – this is a wine needing time. Look for it to blossom in five to six years and then drink well for another decade.

Ken Gargett
Contributor at Winepilot

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.

Wine writer and critic
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