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Peter Lehmann Wigan Riesling 2017
- 96
- $50
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This wine is released with 5 years bottle age as an homage to Andrew Wigan’s passion for white wines. Therefore, there’s some pressure to perform and this wine does so in spades. A vivid pale gold colour belies its age. Ripe makrut lime zest, lime juice, green apple skin and lifted jasmine at the fore with remarkable purity and freshness given its 7 years. Some savoury toastiness emerges with a swirl of the glass, along with pastry dough, honeysuckle, preserved lemon and the faintest suggestion of kerosene. The palate is fresh, fleshy and buoyant with a creamy texture. Restrained lemon and lime notes make way for subtle honey and glimmers of toast in the back palate before waves of clean acid cut the cream and bring long, gentle-but-significant length. I had to re-check the label given this wine’s youthfulness. Yes, 2017! There’s a great balance of texture, freshness, bright fruit and savouriness to this wine. It’s balanced, elegant and long with a significant journey ahead for those who can wait.

Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
