Pimpernel Vineyards Grouch 2020

Grouch in name but not in personality. A co-ferment of Shiraz and Marsanne – very Rhône Valley territory here – that brings a similar slow burn tasting journey, akin to the producer’s Shiraz Viognier blend. Be prepared. Distinctly floral and lightly spiced in aroma with black cherry and plum. So far, so good. Falls innocently enough on the tongue and then builds and builds, gaining momentum, richness and flavour intensity. The longer the wine is open, the bigger the reveal. Marsanne brings acacia, almond, gentle florals and honey notes while Shiraz contributes the lively spice and red fruited intensity. The role of oak and tannin is interesting, both are quietly persuasive but far from intrusive. And that 15% alcohol? Barely noted, an indication of some pretty smart winemaking.

Jeni Port

Wine critic at Winepilot

Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators. Based in Melbourne, Jeni created the first wine column in the (then) Sun News-Pictorial before moving over to The Age and becoming that paper’s longest-serving wine writer. Over the years she has written for most Australian wine magazines and these days calls WinePilot home. She is also a Tasting Panel member on the Halliday Wine Companion. She was named Wine Communicator of the Year and Legend of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in 2014 and in 2018 Legend of the Vine. She is a founding board member of Australian Women In Wine and is the co-deputy chair of Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards and China’s Wine List of the Year Awards.

Wine writer and critic