Pipan Steel Nebbiolo X 2016

Pipan Steel is the project of Wine Maker Paula Pipan and Vineyard Manager Radley Steel, who share a common passion (more of an obsession really) for a single grape variety, Nebbiolo. 

After years of research and a lot of dedication they found the perfect vineyard site at Mudgegonga, nestled in the foothills of the Australian Alps, 400 m above sea level and bathed in fog every winter, just like the rolling hills of Piemonte. The North-Eastern aspect and a much lower latitude than Piemonte are almost a warranty on ripeness and contribute to that immediateness of fruit that typically characterises New World wines. 

However, what makes these Nebbiolos unique is the focus on clonal differences. 

This X cuveé, based purely on Clone 10, is the one that most reminds me of a Piemontese Nebbiolo. The nose is opulent with an inviting dried fig perfume accompanied by blood orange, anise, Campari and oriental spices. 

The palate has the firm tannins that characterise the variety, but without being obtrusive and full of fruit. Meaty and tarry, with intermittent Maraschino Cherry flare-ups and a finish dominated by cocoa nib notes. 

Do yourself a favour: decant it, drink it slowly over dinner (I’m thinking Ossobuco alla Milanese) and contemplate its evolution. It changes a lot with time in the glass.