Rising Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2023

‘Four separate Pinot Noir blocks at Rising Vineyard were hand-picked and fermented separately to make up the 2023 Rising Pinot Noir. The clones used are MV6, 114, 115 and D2V6. Different percentages of whole bunch and time on skins were used for each ferment. The average time on skins is 12 days and the overall whole bunch component is 27%. The ferments were pressed off and sent to French oak hogsheads – of which around 20% are new – for 10 months maturation, before blending and bottling unfined and unfiltered in January 2024.’

This was a stunning Pinot and a testament to the quality of the vineyard and the skill of the winemaker, Anthony Fikkers. There was abundant complexity on show, which began as soon as I opened the bottle: loads of sour, red and black cherry, raspberry, forest floor and some stemminess. The palate was silky and resonant, with mouth-filling flavour – particularly in the mid-palate – and dusty, chewy tannins and a zinginess that was evident on the tongue. With some air, the fruit turns darker and the tannins become even chewier. Like all young, high-quality Pinots, the best is yet to come from this wine, which is reflected in the ‘+’ in my score, as I honestly believe it will become even better with some more bottle age.

Brendan Black

Wine Critic at Winepilot

Brendan is a Melbourne-based writer, filmmaker, playwright and composer. Since 2013, he has been published in national and regional Australian titles such as Halliday Magazine, Gourmet Traveller Wine, Grapegrower and Winemaker, Gippslandia, Gippsland Lifestyle, Yarra Valley and Ranges and Gippsland Country Life magazines. Brendan was a finalist for 2024 Wine Communicator Awards in the 'Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column' category. He has completed the WSET Level 3 course (gaining a Distinction) and has a passion for small producers of wine, beer and spirits. He is also the co-editor of 'I'm Not a Film Star: David Bowie as Actor' for Bloomsbury Academic.

Author and wine writer