Rob Dolan White Label Pinot Noir 2021

Whole berry, cold four-day cold soak, open pot fermentation, hand-plunged, 40% new French oak. Pale and inspiring in colour, the nose is a brambly mix of primary tart red fruits, rosehip, sap, decomposing foliage, wet dirt, fresh tobacco, damp tea leaves, clove and allspice. A balanced straddle of earth, dirt, spice,  florals and fruit. This is a decidedly savoury Pinot; the pert red fruit is spritely despite the charry and chalky tannins. There’s a ferrous nature here, too, and oodles of spice. A nuanced wine with an understated elegance that unfurls gently, lingering in the corner of the room.