Robert Stein Dry Riesling 2021
- 92
- $40
- Drink by: 2022-2030
Share
We don’t normally link Mudgee with Riesling and certainly not with the grape’s history, but that is proving to be a mistake. The Robert Stein Winery traces its association back to 1838 when their ancestor, Johann Stein, arrived with the Macarthurs and the first cuttings of Riesling. Johann then had charge of those cuttings. Many years later, the mid 1970s, Robert Stein purchased the property which would become the estate and vineyards. Considerable success, not least on the show circuit, has followed and another generation of the family, Jacob, now makes the wines.
This wine was made mostly from estate fruit, including the original 1976 plantings. Whole bunch pressing, cool fermentation in stainless steel and extended lees contact. Pale straw in colour, notes of citrus, especially grapefruit. Nicely balanced, with bright and cleansing acidity. Has impressive length and is dry, as advertised. Expect this to continue to drink well, and even improve a touch, over the next five to eight years.
Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
