Rowlee Single Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2021

The Orange region is known for its high altitude, cool climate-edged Chardonnay, but spare a thought for Sauvignon Blanc. It sings in this part of the world, too. And, as Rowlee defines the grape, it can bring complexity and some of that forementioned regional edge to a fumé style. The result is an inviting, sophisticated personality courtesy of partial barrel fermentation – in keeping with the fumé or smoky style of sauvignon – with gentle green bean, beeswax, nettle and citrus scents. Acidity is clean and juicy to taste alongside a punchy, light herbal overlay of gooseberry and citrus. And there’s an attractive textural quality, too, which sets it up nicely with a range of seafood. The secret to enjoying this wine fully is not to overchill. If you do, you’ll over-promote that cool climate racy acidity at the expense of some fine delicacy.