Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Cabernets Merlot Franc 2021

For those with long memories, the rise of the Wrattonbully wine region will come as a sweet postscript to one of the biggest legal battles over regional boundaries ever fought in this country concentrating on Coonawarra. At the centre of that battle was Brian Croser. It is poetic justice that saw him buy a vineyard on land that ceased to be Coonawarra as a result of the court case and became the Wrattonbully wine region. Together, Whalebone Vineyard and Wrattonbully show their star quality in a top, cool vintage like 2021. The four-way blend led by Cabernet Sauvignon (53.5%) with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz offers a smart, classic Cabernet-led style, one that is less about bells and whistles winemaking and just solid, well grown, old vine fruit and restrained winemaking. The scent is hedonistic with a fragrance rich in blackberry, jalapeño, dried herbs, cocoa, chocolate pan forte and pencil lead notes. There is a delicious juiciness to be enjoyed on the palate amid a generous meshing of earth, liquorice, black fruits, chocolate and woody spices delivered tight and firm in structure with fine Cabernet tannins in control and a bright acidity freshness. That touch of herbal lift to close is a lovely, memorable and fitting conclusion. Will age leisurely, beautifully.