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Three Dark Horses Vermentino 2025
- 90
- $25
- Drink by: 2025-2028
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McLaren Vale Vermentino continues to prove itself a most welcome addition to the Australian wine firmament. This example is from the McLaren Flat sub-region and spent six months in older French oak for maturation, to enhance the texture and complexity. A deep straw/bronze hue, the nose reveals an array of flavours, including apricot kernels, melons, nuts, pears, citrus and a flick of rock melon. Things lift even further on the palate with flavour in abundance and the most alluring texture. The wine is of medium length, but it does offer a lingering finish. It will provide pleasure over the next two to three years.

Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. He had a non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. But a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. It did not stop Ken being chastised later for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted he’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. Now, Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail. He also has a little sideline writing on cigars, fishing, travel and food. When not writing, fly-fishing for trout in NZ or bonefish on the flats of Cuba, travelling or smoking cigars, he is no doubt following a variety of sporting teams – the occasionally glorious Queensland Reds rugby, the dysfunctional Washington Redskins, the dodgy Arsenal and especially revels in the world restored to its proper axis with the return of the Ashes to their rightful home.
