Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Brunnen Chardonnay Beechworth 2022

Another strong release of this wine. The making: “Pressed as crushed clusters. Partial solids wild ferment, then full mlf in barrique. 25% new oak. Ten months in oak with monthly stirring, then five months in tank for fine lees tightening before bottling”.  There’s a quietness to this wine that draws you into the glass. Subtle nougat, brine, slithered almond, red apple, clotted cream, pastry dough, and a whisper of smoke. The palate has energy and verve, texture and restrained power. Red apple, cream, smoke, pastry dough, and oak spice are wrapped up in chalky phenolics and firm acidity bringing freshness and drawing length. Some toasty cedary oak notes through the finish, too. Restrained power, with great complexity and structure. All class.