Willem Kurt Beechworth Shiraz 2023
- 92
- $45
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Two clones were used for this wine, one spending 30 days on skins and the other 90 days, with approximately 15% whole bunches included. It matured for 16 months in oak before being settled and bottled without fining or filtration. As with much of Australia’s east coast, the 2023 vintage in Beechworth was brutally cold, wet and late, presenting significant challenges. In this instance, those conditions have yielded a fine-boned, spicy, Syrah-like expression. White pepper, Bing cherry, sour blackberry and glimmers of menthol set the scene. Black olive tapenade and olive brine add savoury depth, while subtle cedar char emerges with air, building further complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, again led by sour cherry and sour blackberry, layered with pepper spice, red rose, delicate earth and a reprise of gentle oak char. A faint suggestion of bacon fat lingers quietly in the background. Grainy, tight tannins provide a firm structural frame, supported by bright acidity. The tannins outlast the fruit through the finish—perhaps a reflection of the challenging 2023 vintage—but there’s undeniable St Joseph–like charm here. Peppery, bright and structured, this is a lighter, savoury style of Shiraz best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Plenty to like.
Tom Kline is a wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator based in Victoria, Australia. He is the Australian correspondent for the internationally respected publications Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy and Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux, where he highlights the top tier of Australian wine for a global audience. Tom also writes for leading outlets including Decanter (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine, among others. An experienced wine show judge and WSET educator, he has authored several consumer-focused wine courses aimed at making wine more accessible and engaging. In 2023, Tom was awarded Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards, presented by Wine Communicators of Australia.
